Recipes

Tomato Preserves

We couldn’t wait to go back in time and try this recipe developed in The New York Times test kitchen in 1948 and recently reprinted. Times writer Amanda Hesser explains that the combination of lemon, cloves, cinnamon and ginger has its roots in the 18th century, yet it sounds fresh and modern. Try these sweet, spiced tomatoes as a fragrant condiment with cheeses, pureed as a glaze for a mahogany roast chicken, and on the side with brisket and root vegetables.

Note that you will need a scale to make these preserves, as the tomatoes must be weighed after they are peeled.

Ingredients

Small plum tomatoes
For each pound of cored and peeled tomatoes:
¾ pound sugar
3 cloves
1 stick cinnamon
1 ¼-inch slice peeled ginger
¼ lemon, thinly sliced, seeds discarded

Select slightly underripe tomatoes, preferably the small, pear-shaped ones. Core the tomatoes, then skin them by cutting a shallow X in their end and dipping them in boiling water for 30 seconds. Drain and peel. If the tomatoes are large, slice them in half across the middle and remove their seeds. Weigh the tomatoes, then measure the sugar and spices.
Layer the tomatoes and sugar in a deep, heavy saucepan (enameled cast iron works best). Cover and let stand overnight—no need to refrigerate.
The next day, tie the spices in cheesecloth. Add the spice bag to the tomatoes along with the sliced lemon. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring often, until the tomatoes have become slightly translucent and the syrup is thick and begins to gel. Don’t boil the syrup, or the tomatoes will fall apart. If the tomatoes finish first, remove them from the pan and reduce the syrup over medium-high heat. Remove the spice bag. Meanwhile, sterilize enough jars to accommodate the amount of preserves.

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